Wine With Wanda

Welcome to Wine With Wanda!

 

Wanda Mann
Writer. Wine Lover. Traveler.

Wine fills my life with flavor, joy, and adventure! Travel is also my passion and I love learning about the history and culture of a place through its wine traditions. I have been writing about wine for more than a decade.

I am the East Coast Editor at The SOMM Journal and Tasting Panel. I have contributed articles to Food & Wine, Decanter, VinePair,and NAPA Magazine. In June 2022 and 2023, I led wine pairing seminars at the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen. In 2023, I also moderated wine seminars at the Charleston Wine + Food Festival and the Nantucket Wine & Food Festival. 

In 2015, I earned my Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) credential from the Society of Wine Educators. Thanks for joining me on this delicious adventure! 

cheers,

Wanda

I've Moved: Wine With Wanda is Now on Substack!

For the latest news from Wine With Wanda, please subscribe to my Substack newsletter. This site will serve as an archive but all new content is being published at Substack. Cheers! 

 

 

 

Pairing Wines With Party Snacks: Check out my picks in Food & Wine

Wondering what wines to pair with your party snacks? Check out my pairing guide on the Food & Wine website. From charcuterie to caviar, pigs in a blanket to baby lamb chops, my list features classic hors d'oeuvres matched with 21 different wines. Cheers!

Image courtesy of Food & Wine
PHOTO: JENNIFER CAUSEY / FOOD STYLING BY VICTORIA GRANOF / PROP STYLING BY KARIN OLSEN

"‘Tis the season for tiny bites at holiday soirees. But don’t let their petite size fool you; the best hors d’oeuvres pack plenty of flavor and sometimes even outshine the entrees. Pairing hors d’oeuvres with the right wine can transform grazing into a full-fledged tasting experience. Don’t stress about which wine to pair with your charcuterie or deviled eggs; this guide features twenty-one wines that match perfectly with classic hors d’oeuvres." Click here to read the complete article. 

 

2023 Wine Moments: Beaulieu Brings Everybody to the Table!

For more information, visit the Beaulieu Vineyard website. Click here to read my 2019 article, Time Traveling Through Wine: A Journey Through the Decades with Beaulieu Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. 

 

Wine Tasting in NYC: Tr3smano from Ribera del Duero, Spain

Let's meet for a drink! Join me on November 2 for a complimentary tasting of Tr3smano wines from Ribera del Duero, Spain. Click here to register. 

Take your palate on a journey to Ribera del Duero, Spain with the wines of Tr3smano! Join Wine With Wanda on Thursday, November 2, from 6-8pm for a complimentary in-store tasting at the sensational new wine shop Community Wine & Spirits in Chelsea (140 Tenth Avenue). This is a casual tasting. Arrive any time during the event to taste and learn more about Tr3smano. But I do encourage you to arrive early!

Esteemed wine critic Jancis Robinson described Tr3smano as a “superb newcomer in Ribera del Duero”, and I agree. I recently tasted Tr3smano with head winemaker Pedro Aibar and I was impressed by the elegance, balance, and complexity of these absolutely delicious wines. Located in the heart of the Golden Mile, Tr3smano winery draws from the oldest vineyards in the region – some are over 80 years old!

Community Wine & Spirits will offer a 10% discount on Tr3smano purchases made that evening.

Another Reason to Love Spain: La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza

From now on, whenever I see a bottle of La Rioja Alta "Viña Ardanza” Reserva Rioja, I'll be reminded of a laughter-filled wine tasting on a Monday morning in Manhattan. Magic happens and memories are created when you share a beautiful bottle of wine. Tasting Viña Ardanza 2016 with winemaker Julio Saenz (l) and Guillermo de Aranzabal (r), president and 5th generation member of the family that owns La Rioja Alta, transported me back to Spain. Our conversation covered wine, my love of Spanish pop music from the 1980s and 1990s, and the benefits of retiring in Spain. Good times!La Rioja Alta has a rich history; it was founded in 1890 by five Riojan and Basque families in Rioja's famous Haro Station District. Today, when we're having meaningful conversations about women's roles in the wine industry, it was fascinating to learn that La Rioja Alta's first president was a woman and that women currently occupy important leadership roles at the winery.
 
Real wine is never just about the wine. If it were, countless poems, books, songs, and blog posts would not be written about fermented grapes. Real wine tells a story. For La Rioja Alta, wine expresses tradition, family, innovation, terroir, culture, and much more. Guillermo described La Rioja Alta's wines as "new classic Rioja" and "traditional but adapting to new trends." The wines capture the character of the vintage in a fresh and elegant style.

 La Rioja Alta Viña Ardanza Reserva 2016 ($42) is a blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha, and I agree with winemaker Julio's description of the wine as "fruity and spicy." This wine is not harsh or out of sync; the tannins are beautifully integrated, and the oak does not overpower the fruit (they make their own barrels, too!). A pleasure to drink, 2016 is crooning in the glass now, but this beauty will age gracefully and will really hit those soaring notes in a few years.  And maybe by then, I’ll be retired in Spain!

Make Montefalco Your Next Wine Adventure

Devis Romanelli's family has been making wine in the hills of Montefalco for three generations. Like many Montefalco wine estates, Romanelli also produces olive oil. 

Now is the perfect time to start planning your wine-centric adventures for 2023. If you’re looking for authentic wines, warm people, and a stunning natural landscape, Montefalco delivers all that and more. Montefalco is in Umbria, known as the “Green Heart of Italy” because of its verdant green landscape. And the tiny hilltop town of Montefalco, with a population of around 6,000 people, could very well be considered the wine heart of Umbria: It’s a small town that has significantly impacted the Italian wine scene.

The view from Tabarrini Winery. 

I’ve traveled to Italy countless times, yet Umbria had always evaded me until I visited Montefalco in the Spring of 2022 to attend a preview of the region’s wines hosted by the Montefalco Wine Consortium. Montefalco has a rich winemaking history that spans centuries, but it’s only in recent decades that the area started garnering serious attention and acclaim for its red wine, Sagrantino. Indigenous to Montefalco, the grape reaches its highest expression in its hills and calcareous clay soils. Montefalco Sagrantino was granted DOCG status in 1992.

Sagrantino is a powerful, tannic, and complex grape, and regulations require that Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG contain 100% of the grape. During my visit to Montefalco, many producers expressed their desire to create red wines that are more approachable but still authentic. 


The Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG wines I enjoyed most still displayed power but weren’t clunky, aggressive, or too oaky. The essence of the grape came through in the glass -- flavors of black plum, black cherry, licorice, earth, and black pepper. By nature, the Sagrantino grape is extremely tannic; but Montefalco’s producers have found ways to manage the tannins. For example, picking riper grapes and aging the wines in used oak can mitigate tannins. But because of its impressive structure, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG is a wine that ages like a dream. Even the more approachable expressions really start to sing in the glass 10, 15, and 20+ years later.

While waiting for your Montefalco Sagrantino to age, give Montefalco Rosso DOC a swirl. Mostly Sangiovese with 10-25% Sagrantino, the result is an approachable red wine with structure, freshness, and softer tannins.

Montefalco’s red wines are quite special, but the white wines, especially Trebbiano Spoletino, are also a revelation. This white grape is native to Umbria and produces wines with texture, finesse, and aging potential. And Montefalco Bianco DOC wines blend a minimum of 50% Trebbiano Spoletino with other white varieties. 

Fresh and bright Montefalco Grechetto DOC is a flirty and refreshing everyday sip.

Are you ready for an adventure in Montefalco? Even if your travels don’t take you to Umbria, I encourage you to try wines from the 12 producers listed below. Cheers!

Arnaldo Caprai

Ten years ago, I was invited to a tasting in NYC to celebrate Arnaldo Caprai being honored as European Winery of the Year by Wine Enthusiast. On that day, I met winemaker Marco Caprai and tasted Sagrantino for the first time. Arnaldo Caprai, Marco’s father, founded his eponymous winery in 1971 and Marco assumed leadership in 1988. Marco embarked on a mission to create Sagrantino wines of exceptional quality. To say Marco succeeded is an understatement; he is widely credited for proving to a global audience that Sagrantino from Montefalco deserved to be recognized as one of Italy’s top-tier wines. Marco’s success generated interest and acclaim for other winemakers in Montefalco. 

Tabarrini

Meet the vivacious and poetic innovator of Montefalco -- winemaker Giampaolo Tabarrini. During my recent visit to his beautiful winery, Giampaolo said I could select any bottle from the cellar to pair with our lunch. I chose a wine that I absolutely adore, Tabarrini “Adarmando” Trebbiano Spoletino. Giampaolo advised me to pick a vintage that reflected a special time in my life, so I picked 2010 -- the year I first started writing about wine.

Full of life and energy at 12-years-old, Adarmando 2010 showed no signs of slowing down; it was textured, generous, and multi-dimensional. Just like Giampaolo.

Scacciadiavoli

Founded in 1884, Scacciadiavoli is one of the oldest properties in Montefalco. It was a pleasure to tour the old, but very efficient cellars with fourth-generation vintner Liù Pambuffetti. The original cellars may not be shiny and new but they are full of soul. The name Scacciadiavoli means banish the devils and refers to an episode of exorcism in the 14th century when a young woman who was possessed by the devil was liberated by drinking some local red wine. In addition to the core wines of the region, Scacciadiavoli also produces world-class traditional method sparkling wines. 


And a special thank you to Chef Giulio Gigli of Ristorante UNE for the delicious and creative small bites that accompanied the Scacciadiavoli wines.

Tenuta Castelbuono

Alessandro Lunelli and winemaker Luca Capaldini

Simultaneously futuristic and organic, Tenuta Castelbuono makes heads turn. Did aliens build this winery in Umbria or did it hatch from the earth? Proprietor Alessandro Lunelli solved the mystery: Acclaimed contemporary artist Arnaldo Pomodoro designed this unique structure, known as the “Carapace” (turtle shell), to blur the lines between architecture and sculpture.


Alessandro described the Carapace as a sculpture that people can enter. And upon entering, visitors can enjoy some solid wines. If the name Lunelli sounds familiar, it’s because their award-winning Ferrari wines are the pillars of Trentodoc, the traditional method sparkling wine from Trento, in the north of Italy. Intrigued by the quality of Sagrantino wines coming out of Montefalco, in 2001 the Lunelli family purchased Tenuta Castelbuono. A few years later, they committed to building a new winery to match their vision for crafting elegant and high-quality wines.

Terre de Trinci

Meet the dynamic duo of Nicola and Lorenzo Mattoni from Cantina Terre de Trinci! These charming and hardworking brothers are pouring their heart, soul, and expertise into making wines that authentically express the terroir and culture of Umbria. Nicola (on the left) is the winemaker and Lorenzo (right) handles marketing and exports. We often talk about the aging potential of Sagrantino and Terre de Trinci proved it by pouring an exceptional 1998 Sagrantino – it was full of energy and layers of flavor.

Antonelli

Filippo Antonelli
image courtesy of Antonelli 

Talk about a rich history -- this expansive estate, of 430 acres, is mentioned in several medieval documents and has been in the Antonelli family since 1881. Visitors can enjoy wine tastings, overnight stays in a restored antique farmhouse, and cooking classes. 

Lungarotti 

Chiara (left) and Teresa Lungarotti (right) with their mother Maria Grazia. 
image courtesy of Lungarotti 

Considered one of Umbria's premier wineries, Lungarotti was founded by Giorgio Lungarotti in the 1960s. Today, his daughters Chiara (CEO) and Teresa (enologist) lead the company. 

 La VenerandaWith Roberto from La Veneranda. 

This small family-owned winery is one of the hidden treasures of the region and has deep roots in Montefalco; they’ve been cultivating land in the region since 1568. 

Romanelli 

image courtesy of Romanelli 

Three generations of the Romanelli family live and work together to produce wine and olive oil at their picture-perfect hilltop estate in the heart of Montefalco. They also have a wine shop in the historic town center. 

Benedetti & Grigi 

Benedetti & Grigi winemaker Matteo Basili

One of the newer wineries in Montefalco, Benedetti & Grigi produced their first vintage in 2014. 

Valdangius

Sandra and Danilo Antonelli make terroir-driven wines at their family's small farm in Montefalco. 

Terre di San Felice

On my last day in Montefalco, I spent a sweet morning at Terre di San Felice. I’ll never forget sitting in the backyard of the farmhouse and sharing wine and laughter with Carlo Mancini and his cousin who reminded me a bit of Robert DeNiro! I felt like I was visiting long lost family. Such a special moment. Lovely wines made from the heart. 

Where to Stay

La Rocca Guest House & Spa

image courtesy of La Rocca Guest House & Spa

Just a three-minute walk from Montefalco's main square, Piazza del Comune, this charming and comfortable guest house is owned by a Roman who left city life behind for Umbria's rustic appeal. Spacious rooms, gorgeous views of the countryside, and delicious breakfast. 

On my balcony at La Rocca Guest House

Where to Dine

Ristorante Locanda del Teatro Montefalco

Located just down the street from La Rocca Guest House, this elegant restaurant has it all: beautiful ambiance, attentive service, great wine list, and innovative interpretations of local cuisine. We liked it so much, we ate there twice! 

Enoteca di Benezzo

image courtesy of Enoteca di Benozzo

Located on the Piazza del Comune, this is a great spot for soaking in the local scene and enjoying local cheeses, salumi, and wines. 

Extreme Vertical Tasting with Michel Rolland: A Deep Dive Into Clos de Los Siete

Michel Rolland - the original flying winemaker and founder of Clos de Los Siete. 
image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete

Few people can take credit for creating an entirely new career category, but Michel Rolland is the original flying winemaker. Crisscrossing continents and oceans, this Bordeaux-born enologist has worked with more than 150 wineries around the globe. This year marks Rolland's 50th harvest.

Rolland was instantly captivated when he traveled to Argentina for the first time in 1988. Recognizing it as "a beautiful place to make wine," he searched for the perfect spot to launch his own wine project. It took impressive patience, but Rolland didn't give up. Finally, in 1999, Rolland located a premier location at the foot of the Andes Mountains in the Uco Valley, sixty miles south of Mendoza. He partnered with six other French families and formed Clos de Los Siete -- The Vineyard of Seven. 2002 was the first vintage of this Malbec-driven blend.

I recently tasted the 2019 vintage of Clos de Los Siete with Rolland when he was in New York for a whirlwind visit. But Monsieur Rolland upped the ante. Not only was it a blind tasting of six vintages, but the wines also were not served in chronological order. Attendees were provided with descriptions of each vintage, and we had to guess which vintage was in each glass. Really, no pressure at all! And did I mention that I was seated next to Rolland? A little voice inside my head kept saying, "Wanda, don't mess this up!"

Why present the wines in this way? "Consistency is our goal," said Rolland. He added, "it makes me happy that it's very difficult to know which is the oldest or youngest."

Rolland wasn't kidding; it was very challenging to identify which of the six wines matched the specific vintages: 2019, 2018, 2017, 2015, 2010, and 2009. How is that possible? There are usually some telltale traits that red wines develop as they age. For example, the color often fades, and the fruit flavors give way to more savory and tertiary flavors. But even in the oldest vintage presented in the tasting, 2009, the changes in the wine were very subtle: the color was deep and bright, and the fruit was fresh and rich.

image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete

How does Clos de Los Siete do this? Terroir is an integral piece of the puzzle. The climate, altitude, sunlight, water, and soil of the Andes have a tremendous impact on the grapes. For example, the temperature swings of the high-altitude location allow the grapes to ripen slowly with great concentration. The vines are irrigated with pure melted snow from the Andes. And the soil composition of sand, gravel, and clay provides excellent drainage, which encourages the growth of quality grapes.

Malbec is the grape that put Mendoza on the map and is always the dominant grape in Clos de Los Siete. And although the exact varietal composition varies each year, the wine is usually a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.

image courtesy of Clos de Los Siete

"I am a blender. I am from Bordeaux," said Rolland. He applies that blending know-how to Clos de Los Siete. Since it is not a single-varietal wine, the blend is fine-tuned each year to achieve that desired consistency from one vintage to the next.

Four of the seven original families who founded Clos de Los Siete remain involved in the project. Their wineries, Monteviejo, Cuvelier Los Andes, DiamAndes, and Bodega Rolland, each contribute grapes from their plots for the wine. Each year, each winery creates its own blend, and Rolland is the puzzle master that puts them all together. He tastes and selects the components that will form the final Clos de Los Siete blend. "My goal every year is to make a great wine," said Rolland.

The tasting notes provided for the blind tasting described 2019 Clos de Los Siete ($21) as "Another great vintage in the Uco Valley." It is rich and juicy with hints of spice and impressive freshness for such a robust wine. It certainly achieved Rolland's goal of making a wine that is "easy to approach," can be paired with food and enjoyed any time of the day.

And perhaps you're wondering how I did in the blind tasting. Well, in a room of wine professionals, no one identified more than one vintage of Clos de Los Siete correctly. I identified 2010, which the tasting notes described as a "warm and drier vintage."

One out of six isn't going to win me any awards, but it was an invigorating exercise. I loved using the clues and my senses to figure out the puzzle.

Monsieur Rolland made us all feel better when he chuckled and said that even he finds this tasting difficult -- and he makes the wine! A small price to pay for consistency!

Throughout his career, Rolland has partnered in producing many of the world's most acclaimed wines -- and those often bear a price tag that makes them unattainable for many people. I was delighted to see he applies that same precision and passion to the affordable and widely available Clos de Los Siete so that quality wine is within reach for everyone. Cheers! 

Taste the Terroir: Tenuta Luce and Attems

Winemakers Daniele Vuerich (Attems, left) and Alessandro Marini (Tenuta Luce, right). 

My meeting with winemakers Alessandro Marina (Tenuta Luce) and Daniele Vuerich (Attems) was one of my most memorable appointments this year. 

I was so inspired by their passion and commitment to the art and science of winemaking. These young winemakers have already achieved great success; I look forward to following their careers for many years to come.

 

Attems and Tenuta Luce are both owned by the venerable Frescobaldi winemaking family.
Attems is located in Friuli, in the northeast of Italy, a region celebrated for white wines with texture and character. Tenuta Luce is located in the renowned Tuscan appellation, Montalcino.

Attems Pinot Grigio Ramato 2021($20) is an antidote to the bland and watery Pinot Grigio that has saturated the US market. Ramato means copper, and the wine gets its coppery hue from extended skin contact during maceration. Daniele described the wine as a “rosé-style Pinot Grigio” with “complexity and lively acidity.”


Attems “Cicinis” Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($35) hails from the heart from the Collio region of Friuli. A single-vineyard wine, it is zesty and bright with a touch of herbs and a slightly creamy texture.


Tenuta Luce “Luce” Toscana 2019 ($130) is one of Italy’s iconic “Super Tuscan” wines and the first in Montalcino to blend Sangiovese and Merlot. Alessandro said the “very flamboyant” Merlot is balanced by the acidity of the Sangiovese. Silky and almost creamy with rich red fruit flavors and a kiss of spice.

Tenuta Luce Brunello di Montalcino 2017 ($135) is an elegant and classic expression of the regal Brunello. Bold and balanced with well-integrated tannins and a long finish, the Sangiovese grape sings in the glass.

Sip Seña: A Bordeaux Inspired Blend With Chilean Soul

Eduardo Chadwick, and his daughter Magui, presented the 2019 Seña and past vintages that showcased the impressive elegance and aging capacity of this iconic Chilean wine. 

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, please indulge me as I repeat one of my favorite refrains: So many wines, so little time. I often feel exhilaration and exasperation as I navigate my way through the sheer volume of wines available today. But some wines stand out from the captivating chaos of fermented grapes, and Seña is such a wine.

Eduardo Chadwick and Robert Mondavi at Seña's vineyard.  
image courtesy of Seña

The landscape was wildly different when the first vintage of Seña was released in 1997. Naysayers doubted Chile's capacity to produce top-tier wines that could compete on a global stage. But two visionary vintners, Eduardo Chadwick from Chile and Robert Mondavi from the United States, joined forces in 1995 to create Seña. Its release caused quite a sensation, and Seña has won countless accolades and secured its status as one of Chile's premier wines.

Seña 2019 ($125) marks the 25th anniversary since it debuted in 1997 with the 1995 vintage. A rich and elegant blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Malbec, 15% Carmenere, and 4% Petit Verdot, Seña's complex layers of fruit, spice, herbs, and earth are balanced by a vibrant freshness. The cooling breezes of the nearby sea influence Seña's vineyards in the Aconcagua Valley, and that kiss of the sea is perceptible. A very impressive sip! 

Destination Lugana: Impressive White Wines from Lake Garda

Tired of sipping the same old white wines? Break out of your rut with Lugana wines! Located in the north of Italy, on the beautiful southern shores of Lake Garda, Lugana produces some of Italy’s most delicious and charming white wines. The wines are made from the ancient indigenous grape Turbiana, which thrives in the unique microclimate of Lugana. Lake Garda’s breezes regulate the temperature and keep the grapes healthy. Plenty of sunshine and rich white clay soils also contribute to Lugana's fresh, approachable, mineral, and food-friendly personality. 

To learn more about Lugana, watch the recording of my Instagram Live featuring four Lugana producers: Avanzi, Cà Maiol, Pasini San Giovanni, and Pilandro. 

Visit DestinationLugana.com to learn more about Lugana wines and a series of special events in New York City -- 13 restaurants and 2 clubhouses will feature special menus and wines from 28 Lugana producers. Cheers!

 

Sometimes It Takes a Little Crazy to Make a Great Wine: Terrazas de los Andes Malbec

Hervé Birnie-Scott aka El Loco Francés (The Crazy Frenchman)
Founder & Estate Director, Terrazas de los Andes

My mellow mood, fueled by a rainy day in Manhattan, called for an elegant yet approachable wine that would wrap around me like a cashmere scarf. So I reached for three intriguing bottles of Malbec from Terrazas de los Andes that had patiently waited for me to taste them. Yes, Malbec.

Some folks don't consider Malbec cool because it's ubiquitous. But a wine's cool factor isn't its most important attribute. I want well-made, authentic, balanced wines with a compelling story, and Terrazas de los Andes delivers on all fronts. And honestly, anyone who doesn't think that Malbec is cool has not been paying attention to the exciting developments in Argentine winemaking. Not all Malbecs are created equal, and Terrazas de los Andes is an example of how compelling it can be when made with care and creativity.


Armed with only a WW1- era altimeter, in the early 1990's French viticulturist and winemaker Hervé Birnie-Scott set off on an adventure to explore the high-altitude terraces of the Andes. His equipment may have been ancient, but Hervé's skills and intuition were up to the task: he is a cold-climate winemaking expert with experience in Sancerre, Victoria, and California's North Coast. Hervé's unconventional approach and years-long quest to make wine from these high-altitude vineyards earned him the nickname of "el loco Francés" (the crazy Frenchman) from the locals. He may be a little loco, but Hervé's wines are a thing of beauty.  


Fresh, vibrant, nuanced, and bursting with flavor, the Terrazas de los Andes expressions of Malbec are full-bodied and graceful. They are complex without being clunky and overwrought. Their portfolio also includes Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, which I look forward to tasting. 

Terrazas de los Andes Tasting Notes

Malbec Reserva 2020 ($19.99) is a charming introduction to the fresh and flavorful Terrazas de los Andes style. Crisp with juicy flavors of red and black fruit, violets, and a kiss of sweet spice, it is composed of Malbec grapes from more than 100 parcels from 7 estate vineyards that range in altitude from 3510 ft. to 4101 ft. above sea level. An elevated everyday sip. 


Grand Malbec 2018 ($59.99)
A blend of three vineyards with elevations ranging from 3510 ft. to 4100 ft. above sea level, this wine is described as "the fullest expression of Malbec from Terrazas de los Andes." It is more complex and fuller-bodied than the Reserva, but that signature freshness shines through. Ripe black fruit with hints of violet, sweet spices, savory threads of dried herbs, and a touch of graphite. 

Parcel No. 1E “El Espinillo” Malbec 2018 ($99.99)
Described as "the jewel in the Terrazas crown," El Espinillo vineyard is the highest altitude vineyard in Mendoza's esteemed Gualtallary appellation. It is located at a jaw-dropping altitude of 5413 ft. above sea level -- a "high-risk but high-reward elevation that requires extreme viticulture." Intense and brooding but still impressively fresh with flavors of blueberry, blackberry, plum, violet, herbs, a touch of underbrush & meaty mushrooms. 

 

A Tuscan Dream Come True: The Wines of Rocca delle Macìe

When I first met Sergio Zingarelli, President of Rocca delle Macìe winery, in November 2019, there was no crystal ball around to warn us that we were living in the good old days: life before the Covid-19 pandemic. Sitting around a table at a Manhattan restaurant, our group of wine professionals didn’t know that global turmoil was just around the corner. Still, we instinctively laughed and savored each sip of his family’s wines because it was clearly a moment to treasure. Thank goodness for those memories. They were a sustaining force during the endless days of social distancing when it seemed like sitting side-by-side in enclosed spaces was destined for the history books.

It's hard to believe that almost 3 years had passed since my first tasting with Sergio Zingerelli. 

Well, don’t count out the human spirit, especially when paired with the power of science. Now that most of the world is vaccinated and boosted, the situation has vastly improved. And because of this progress, in September 2022, almost three years since our first tasting, I had the pleasure of meeting with Sergio again for a vertical tasting of the 2010 -2018 vintages of his eponymous Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG. Impeccably tailored and with the manners to match, Sergio is rightfully proud of what his family has accomplished in the world of wine.

Many wineries have an intriguing backstory, but the story of Rocca delle Macìe is genuinely cinematic. Sergio’s father, Italo Zingarelli, led a colorful life worthy of a biopic: He had a brief career as a boxer before transitioning to work in film as an extra and stuntman. That opened the door for the elder Zingarelli’s impressive career as a film producer, and director of popular “Spaghetti Western” films, including They Call Me Trinity and Trinity Is Still My Name. Italo’s success in the film industry enabled him to fulfill his dream of owning a wine estate in Tuscany. “And so, in 1973, in contrast to all those who at the time were fleeing the countryside to work in the city, he purchased a rundown 14th-century borgo in Castellina in Chianti and set about painstakingly restoring the buildings, thus giving rise to the Rocca delle Macìe winery,” said Sergio.

In 1984, Sergio joined his father at Rocca delle Macíe and worked his way up to his current leading man role of President. Italo passed away in 2000 but remains a source of inspiration for Sergio and his siblings: “My father managed to infuse me, my brother Fabio, and my sister Sandra with his great passion for Tuscany and for the art of winemaking, as well as with the desire and enthusiasm to continue writing the never-ending story that binds the art of wine-making to the life of man.”

Sitting across the table from Sergio and knowing the story of his family certainly adds more texture, nuance, and energy to the tasting experience. But the wines stand on their own. Elegant with a freshness that endures even in older vintages, they are a sippable and sophisticated snapshot of time and place.

Our tasting focused on the single-vineyard Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG. Sergio told me that the vineyard is visible from his kitchen window. Representing the top tier of the Chianti Classico pyramid, Gran Selezione is a relatively new category introduced in 2014. It has secured its position as a stellar and age-worthy expression of Sangiovese.

Like a well-made movie, the story of Rocca delle Macìe has many layers -- passion, creativity, family, and true grit. And the wines capture this complexity in an energetic and elegant style. And who doesn’t love a happy ending where dreams come true?

Tasting Notes

The 2015 and 2016 vintages of Sergio Zingarelli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG are currently available in the US marketplace and sell for about $100 per bottle. The 2017 vintage is coming soon, and 2018 should reach American shores in 2023.

2015 and 2016 were both exceptional vintages in Chianti Classico. Both Sergio Zingarelli wines are 100% Sangiovese with impressive balance and freshness. I found 2015 a bit more opulent and luscious than 2016 – rich and round with pops of spice; it reverberates on the palate like an opera diva with precision and passion. 2016 is slightly more restrained and less va va voom. A bit shy in the beginning, its bright and rich flavors open beautifully in the glass. 2017 was a hotter vintage, and although the ripeness of the fruit is more pronounced, it is not jammy -- the freshness is still there. I did get a sneak peek of 2018; it is still a baby by Gran Selezione standards, but the structure and freshness are promising signs.

And, if you’re looking for a refreshing white wine with character, I recommend their 2021 Campo Maccione Vermentino ($16) from Rocca delle Macìe’s estate in Tuscany’s coastal Maremma region. A subtly salty kiss of the sea meshes perfectly with its flavors of white peach, lemon, and a pop of pineapple.

Feeling the Spirit with Angostura Zenith Rum

I'm so thoroughly immersed in the world of wine that there's rarely time to dive deeply into spirits. But where there's flavor, I'll follow. Recently my thirst and curiosity led me to a tasting with Angostura Rum master distiller Jean Georges.

Hosted 101 stories above Manhattan at Peak Restaurant, the scenic and dramatic location was the perfect setting for the reveal of Angostura Zenith, a rare, limited-edition ultra-premium rum. How rare? Only 195 bottles were produced. And expect to pay a pretty penny for this rare rum. A bottle of Zenith will set you back $3,000!

What makes Angostura Zenith so special?

Well, I learned that Trinidad & Tobago was once home to more than 50 rum distilleries, but today Angostura is the last one standing in the Caribbean island nation.

The newest addition to Angostura's Private Cask Collection, Zenith is a compelling link between Angostura and the now defunct Caroni 1975 Limited. Considered one of Trinidad & Tobago's most iconic distilleries, Caroni was celebrated for the rich, earthy, and smoky profile of its rums.

Zenith was produced with the last of Caroni's treasured molasses and is a blend of Angostura® and Caroni rums ranging from 20 to 23 years old. Zenith was aged in charred American oak casks once used for bourbon.

Complex and sultry, Zenith is a wholly realized rum. Its tapestry of flavors includes tropical fruit, raisins, cocoa, apple, vanilla, and a warming thread of toasty oak. "You can't call a rum premium if you don't have a touch of cask," said Georges.

Angostura Zenith is a rum to savor. Don't you dare add cola to it! And if you do splurge on a bottle, you can feel good knowing that a portion of the proceeds will provide a scholarship for a young person pursuing studies in music or art.

And you don't need deep pockets to enjoy Angostura Rum; their portfolio includes a diverse range of rums at approachable price points. I suggest giving Angostura 1824 ($72) a try. "I'm not supposed to have a favorite child, but I do," said Jean Georges as he took a sip of 1824 and extolled its "unique combination of bitter and sweet." Aged for a minimum of 12 years, 1824 is smooth and medium-bodied with hints of chocolate, spices, orange, molasses, fruit, and licorice. The name 1824 is a nod to Angostura's heritage; the company was founded that year by Dr. Johann Siegert, who invented their iconic aromatic bitters.

I also found the silky Angostura 7 ($32) quite charming. Aged in Bourbon oak casks for a minimum of seven years, it has vibrant flavors of honey, toasted nuts, coffee, chocolate, and that tantalizing touch of cask.

During the tasting, Georges asked us to ponder why rum has not been as revered as other spirits such as whisky and cognac. That question has lingered with me. Based on its rich history, cultural authenticity, and precise production process, Angostura certainly makes a case for rum's deserved place in the upper echelons of the spirits world.

The Future Sparkles at Champagne Piper-Heidsieck

Following in the footsteps of a legend might rattle some people, but Champagne Piper-Heidsieck's "newish" chief winemaker, Émilien Boutillat, is already laying the foundation for his own icon status.

Émilien's predecessor, Régis Camus, looms large over the Piper-Heidsieck legacy; he held the position for nearly three decades and was named Sparkling Winemaker of the Year a record eight times at the International Wine Challenge. Émilien was appointed chief winemaker in 2018 and is already poised to have a similar winning streak in the future; in 2021, he was honored as Sparkling Winemaker of the Year. At 35 years old, Émilien is the youngest chief winemaker in the history of Piper-Heidsieck. He has many decades ahead of him to make his mark.

A native of Champagne, born into a family of winegrowers, Émilien's passion for the world of wine started at a young age. In addition to the knowledge garnered from previous generations, he studied viticulture, enology, and agricultural engineering at the university level.

I recently had the pleasure of reconnecting with Émilien on his recent visit to New York City. Like many of us, Émilien is happy to be traveling the world again after more than two years of social distancing. And when Émilien shows up, he brings beautiful wines, charm, and good humor. He mentioned that improvisational theater is one of his hobbies. Émilien's ease at being bombarded by a trio of NYC wine writers with a never-ending stream of questions reflected his talent for thinking on his feet.

Founded in 1785, Piper-Heidsieck certainly needs no introduction among Champagne lovers. Their crisp and elegant Cuvée Brut NV ($66) is the House’s signature bubbly, known around the world for its consistent quality.

A blend of Pinot Noir (50-55%), Meunier (30-35%), and Chardonnay (15-20%), the grapes represent 100 crus from across Champagne. It is aged on the lees for a minimum of 24 months. Round and crisp with bright flavors of apple, pear, white peach, and that sultry touch of toasted bread, Cuvée Brut is a crowd pleaser that always adds a dash of ooh la la to the moment.

Cuvée Brut is Piper-Heidsieck's signature bubbly, but Essentiel ($70) shows how the House pushes forward with new expressions of Champagne. Pinot Noir (45%) also dominates this blend and is combined with Meunier (36%) and Chardonnay (19%). But, in addition to the slightly different percentages of each grape in the blend, Essentiel distinguishes itself from Cuvée Brut in some fundamental ways. The grape selection is limited to 50 crus instead of 100. It was aged about a year longer on the lees, for a minimum of 36 months, instead of 24. And it is crafted in an Extra-Brut style. Ripe and full, the slightly drier style of Champagne is still impressively rich with luscious flavors of plum, poached pear, and a kiss of honey mingled with brioche. This bubbly has the weight needed to pair with roast chicken, fish, and pork but still has impressive energy and verve.

Piper-Heidsieck Brut 2014 ($97) is a compelling snapshot of the vintage. 2014 was marked by a cool and rainy summer, but September sunshine provided the warm and dry conditions needed for the grapes to achieve a balance of ripeness and freshness. A blend of Pinot Noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%), the grapes represent 19 crus, including 87% Grands and Premiers Crus. Aged on the lees a minimum of 5 years, 2014 emerges from the bottle sultry and bold, ready to steal the show. Pops of ginger, licorice, and toast bring an energetic and savory touch to the rich and ripe fruit. It is a fine example of a gastronomic style of Champagne that can pair beautifully with rich foods. Its crisp acidity makes it an especially good match with creamy foods. If you're looking for an inspired high-low pairing, try 2014 with lobster mac & cheese: Émilien was dubious initially, but this combination wowed him during our dinner.

I look forward to following Émilien's career as a winemaker; his blend of enthusiasm, deep roots in Champagne, technical know-how, and vision for the future point toward an impressive tenure at Piper-Heidsieck. “Sustainability is a key pillar today and for the future. In the vineyard and beyond. It's good for the planet and good for the people", said Emilien.

Don't worry, darlings; Piper-Heidsieck is in excellent hands.

Talking About Wine, Writing, and More with Jason Haas of Tablas Creek Vineyard

I'm usually the one asking the questions, but Jason Haas, partner & general manager of Tablas Creek Vineyard, did a beautiful job interviewing me on Instagram Live. I had the pleasure of visiting Tablas Creek on my 2021 visit to Paso Robles, CA, and featured Jason and the winery in my article about the region for Food & Wine magazine. 

And talk about a small world -- Jason and I went to high school together and shared many friends in common, but we didn't know each other until our 2021 meeting. I'm thrilled that wine has been the catalyst for our paths finally crossing. During the Instagram Live chat, Jason shared details about what's happening in the vineyards and cellars of Tablas Creek and gave me an update on their flock of sheep! Authentically committed to sustainability, Tablas Creek became the first Regenerative Organic Certified Vineyard in the United States.

Watch the video to learn more about Tablas Creek and for Jason's thoughtful questions about my career as a wine writer. 

The Class of 1972 Celebrates 50 Years of California Winemaking Excellence

The Class of 1972 is still going strong! Fifty years ago, some of California’s most important wineries were founded. Recently, six of these Napa & Sonoma trailblazers gathered for a surreal tasting, organized by Jordan winery, at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone, in St. Helena, California. 

Chateau Montelena, Jordan, Burgess, Diamond Creek, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and Dry Creek Vineyard each shared a selection of three wines, including some impressive library vintages. 

Stag’s Leap took the assignment to heart and dazzled the group of professional wine tasters with a 1972 S.L.V Cabernet Sauvignon that displayed impressive vitality and grace at 50. (You may recall that 1973 Stag’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon won the Judgement of Paris in 1976, the legendary tasting that showed the world that California was a premier wine region.) 

Chateau Montelena’s 1973 Chardonnay won the Judgement of Paris tasting in the white wine category. And the 2002 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon they poured at the Class of 1972 tasting made a strong case for their prowess with red. 

Jordan knocked it out of the park with a 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Burgess charmed the group with a 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon, and Diamond Creek shined bright with their 1993 Red Rock Terrace Cabernet Sauvignon. And Dry Creek Vineyard turned heads with their 1994 Fumé Blanc, a complex and elegant expression of Sauvignon Blanc. 

Each of these wineries has a different winemaking style and terroir, but there are some shared perspectives. Being good stewards of the land, crafting wines that are an expression of terroir, and making wines that can stand the taste of time, are guiding principles that have allowed each winery to innovate, remain authentic, and navigate the changing landscape of consumer preferences.  

Now elders and not rookies, the Class of 1972 has proven themselves, but they’re not just coasting along; they embrace the challenge of stepping up to the plate each vintage. That’s a wise approach to wine and life! 

Will Travel for Wine: Jordan Winery, Alexander Valley, Sonoma

How far will you travel for a delicious glass of wine? I just returned from a whirlwind 36-hour trip out west to Sonoma and Napa – almost 3,000 miles from my home in NYC. And visiting Jordan winery in Alexander Valley, Sonoma County, was worth the jetlag and flight delays. I’ve enjoyed Jordan’s wines for years; photos of their estate have always sparked daydreams of sipping their wine in the Sonoma sunshine. Well, darlings, dreams do come true!

Thursday morning, we drove up Jordan’s dramatic one-mile-long driveway to reach their beautiful château, which houses the winery and tasting room. Founded in 1972, Jordan is situated on 1,200 acres, but vineyards only occupy about 120 acres of the vast estate. Why? Because of the diversity of the terroir, Jordan identified the best plots for their Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, and Malbec. The remaining 1000+ acres provide a wild and natural habitat for flora and fauna. Sustainability isn’t just talk at Jordan.

Jordan is laser-focused on doing three things: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and hospitality. Maggie Kruse leads the winemaking team at Jordan; she was a protégé of Rob Davis, who joined Jordan just before their first harvest in 1976 and retired in 2019 -- a tenure of more than 40 years!

Jordan pours their passion, resources, and know-how into producing only two wines each year: one Cabernet Sauvignon and one Chardonnay. Inspired by the wines of France, Jordan’s style is balanced and not jammy, with vibrant but not over-ripe fruit, bright acidity, smooth tannins, and finesse. Their precise work in the vineyards and the cellar captures the nuances of each vintage while conveying the signature Jordan style.

And Jordan’s hospitality is top-notch. I enjoyed an excellent tasting and tour, led by with enthusiasm & expertise by Jordan team member Hannah Ingwerson, which included peeks into the château’s secret passageways, and delicious food & wine pairings. They have olive trees too and produce a superb oil.

By Old World standards, fifty is young for a winery, but the Jordan family is an example of New World vision and grit; they are Sonoma trailblazers. Happy 50th, Jordan!

Wine's Wild West: My "Food & WIne" Feature About Paso Robles, California

People are often surprised when I tell them that I've  been writing for more than a decade. What a journey it's been, and I continue to learn more every day. Since I was a little girl, I've loved writing and never imagined that wine would be a source of endless inspiration. In addition to the sheer beauty of wine, the people and places move me. Getting to share those stories with others is a blessing. 



I'm thrilled that my story Wine's Wild West appears in the April 2022 issue of Food & Wine magazine (page 65). It explores the wine scene in Paso Robles, California, and includes info on restaurants and hotel accommodations. Featured wineries include Booker Estate, L'Aventure, Tablas Creek, Thacher Winery & Vineyard, and others. The wine travel club, The Vines, is also highlighted. 

Also, on page 20, you'll find my short piece Cool It: How Wine Pros Store Their Wine at Home. Cheers! 

Women in Wine Leadership Symposium

I recently had the honor of moderating the keynote discussion for the tenth annual Women in Wine Leadership Symposium (WWLS). The conversation featured Annette Alvarez-Peters, Jirka Jireh, and Mandy Oser, and covered a wide range of topics, including diversity, mentorship, work-life balance, and working relationships. Several years ago, I received my first invitation to attend WWLS and it has always been one of favorite industry events. Few wine industry gatherings can rival WWLS's combination of camaraderie, education, and networking. Having a seat at the table as a moderator, was truly a career highlight. The keynote discussion also inspired an article in Forbes by Cathrine Todd. 

Click here to watch the symposium or scroll down to the video. 

Welcome to Wine With Wanda!

 

image: Doug Young Photography

A native New Yorker with Southern roots and the daughter of a professional chef, food & wine are an integral part of my life. Travel is also my passion and I love learning about the history and culture of a place through its wine traditions.

I am the East Coast Editor at The SOMM Journal and the New York City Editor for Tasting Panel. I have contributed articles to Food & Wine and NAPA Magazine. In 2022, I served as an associate judge at Wine Without Walls in Verona, Italy. In 2015, I earned my Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) credential from the Society of Wine Educators. Thanks for joining me on this delicious adventure! 

Click here for my complete bio. 

cheers,

Wanda